Coco Chanel at a Glance
Coco Chanel: The Life, Legacy, and Controversies of a Fashion Icon
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, a name synonymous with elegance, innovation, and enduring style, left an indelible mark on the world of fashion. This article delves into the fascinating life of Coco Chanel, exploring her humble beginnings, the creation of her iconic brand, her controversial wartime activities, and her lasting influence on the fashion industry and popular culture.
Early Life and Childhood
Coco Chanel’s journey began on August 19, 1883, in Saumur, France, as Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel. Her early life was marked by hardship and instability. Born to Eugénie Jeanne Devolle Chanel, a laundrywoman, and Albert Chanel, an itinerant street vendor, Gabrielle experienced a nomadic childhood. Following the death of her mother when she was just 11, her father abandoned her and her siblings. Gabrielle and her sisters were sent to an orphanage run by the convent of Aubazine, while her brothers were sent to work as farm laborers. This period of her life was characterized by austerity and strict discipline, which is believed to have heavily influenced her design aesthetic, characterized by simplicity, functionality, and a rejection of excessive ornamentation.
At 18, Gabrielle left the orphanage and moved to a boarding house for Catholic girls in Moulins. It was during this time that she began to cultivate a more glamorous persona, which would later become her public image. While in Moulins, she worked as a seamstress and a cabaret singer, which earned her the nickname “Coco.”
The Rise of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel
Coco’s early career was shaped by a combination of talent, ambition, and strategic relationships. While working in Moulins, she met Etienne Balsan, a wealthy French ex-cavalry officer and textile heir. She became his mistress, living with him in his château for three years. This provided her with financial security and access to high society, crucial for her future success. During her time with Balsan, she began designing hats, demonstrating her innate design capabilities.
Later, she began an affair with Captain Arthur Edward “Boy” Capel, a friend of Balsan. Capel became a crucial figure in Chanel’s career, providing financial backing and support that enabled her to open her first boutiques. His influence went beyond financial support, and he acted as a mentor and confidant during these formative years. He installed her in an apartment in Paris and financed her initial ventures.
Evening Standard/Hulton Archive/ Getty Images
Founding the Chanel Empire
In 1910, Coco Chanel took a pivotal step, becoming a licensed milliner and opening her first boutique, “Chanel Modes,” in Paris. The boutique’s popularity quickly grew after theatre actress Gabrielle Dorziat wore one of Chanel’s hats in a play. This exposure helped to solidify Chanel’s reputation, establishing her as a skilled and innovative designer.
In 1913, she expanded her business by opening a boutique in Deauville, where she began selling deluxe casual clothing, and another in Biarritz, which proved incredibly lucrative. This early success allowed her to reimburse Capel’s initial investment. In 1921, she opened an early incarnation of a fashion boutique in Paris, featuring clothing, hats, accessories, and other designs. This flagship location soon expanded to offer jewelry and fragrances, eventually encompassing five properties in the district by 1927. This expansion marked the true beginning of the Chanel empire, solidifying her dominance in the fashion industry.
The Complex Wertheimer Deal
A significant milestone for Chanel was the creation of her perfume, Chanel No. 5, which would become an iconic fragrance. In the 1920s, Chanel collaborated with the Russian composer Igor Stravinsky, designing dance costumes for the Ballets Russes. Through this association, she was introduced to Théophile Bader, the founder of Galeries Lafayette, who was keen to sell Chanel No. 5 in his department store. This led to a business deal with Pierre Wertheimer, an investor, which resulted in the formation of Parfums Chanel.
The terms of this deal were heavily weighted in favor of Wertheimer. He held 70% ownership, Bader had 20%, and Chanel only retained 10%. Chanel later deeply regretted this arrangement and attempted, unsuccessfully, to renegotiate the terms. Today, the brand remains privately held, with Wertheimer’s descendants, Alain and Gerard Wertheimer, owning 100% of the company. Their combined net worth places them among the wealthiest individuals globally.
World War II and the Shadow of Collaboration
The outbreak of World War II brought significant disruption and controversy to Chanel’s life and career. In the late 1930s, she had already established herself as the leading designer in Paris, but she closed her shops at the onset of the war, citing the inappropriateness of fashion during a time of conflict.
During the war, Chanel’s actions and associations became deeply controversial. Pierre Wertheimer appointed a local Christian industrialist as a Nazi-friendly “Aryan” proxy owner of the business. Chanel, who was living in the Hotel Ritz in Paris, the preferred residence of the German military, was accused of collaborating with the Nazis. She reportedly had romantic liaisons with high-ranking German officers and was even rumored to be a Nazi sympathizer. French intelligence agencies later confirmed that Chanel worked as a spy for the Germans, playing a role in a plan to take control of Madrid. After the war, these accusations led to her exile in Switzerland to avoid criminal charges.
While in Switzerland, Chanel launched a new perfume line under her own name. However, Wertheimer threatened to sue Chanel for infringing on the commercial rights of Parfums Chanel. In 1947, a deal was struck where Wertheimer paid Chanel a sum of $400,000, agreed to a 2% royalty on sales of Chanel No. 5, and provided her with a monthly stipend. In return, Chanel ceased selling her Swiss perfumes, relinquished her 10% ownership stake in Parfums Chanel, and sold her rights to the “Coco Chanel” name.
Chanel’s Enduring Legacy
Despite the controversies, Chanel’s legacy in the fashion world remains undeniable. She revolutionized women’s fashion by popularizing a sporty, casual-chic style that rejected the constraints of the corseted silhouette. Her designs emphasized comfort, practicality, and elegance, which resonated with women seeking greater freedom and modernity.
Chanel’s impact transcends fashion; she was listed on “Time” magazine’s list of the 100 most influential people of the 20th century. Many of her designs have become iconic, including the Chanel No. 5 perfume and the interlocked-CC monogram. Her innovations continue to inspire designers and influence fashion trends today.
Personal Life and Death
Coco Chanel’s personal life was as dynamic as her professional one. She maintained a lifelong romantic relationship with Arthur Capel, even after he married. She also had relationships with the Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich of Russia and the composer Igor Stravinsky. A close friend of Misia Sert, Chanel shared her life with a member of the bohemian elite in Paris. They also shared a regular drug use habit, with Chanel becoming a daily user of morphine, and she developed a reputation for throwing lavish drug-filled parties in Paris.
She had a close association with the British aristocracy, including an affair with the Duke of Westminster, whose antisemitism may have influenced Chanel’s own views. During the war, she lived in the Hotel Ritz in Paris and had romantic relationships with high-ranking German military figures, leading to accusations of Nazi collaboration. Chanel died in January 1971 at the Hotel Ritz, where she had lived for over 30 years. Her funeral was attended by models and fashion designers, a testament to her lasting influence. Despite her controversial past, Chanel’s impact on fashion and culture remains profound.